The next day at Tingri dawned clear, so I walked to the highway to watch the sunrise, and followed the skyline from Everest to Gyachung Kang and Cho Oyu fully decked out in their splendid white coats above the brown of the Tingri Plain. A handsome young teenage boy carrying a Tibetan book under his arm said hello and waved to us as we drove off. We stopped for a few minutes when our truck broke down; then continued for 49km to our turn off for Kharta. About 15 children surrounded us when we stopped at the check post at the small village called Chay.